Susan
Speck is a divemaster and owner of a dive center in Baja
California. She has been photographing and diving Baja California
for more that 25 years. Her articles and photographs of Baja and
many other remote diving destinations have appeared ind diving, travel
and nature magazines worldwide. The Past
Twenty million years ago, the Baja California, peninsula was a land of
palm jungles choked with ferns and lush primeval vegetation. It
was, home to the 23-ton, 50-foot-long (15 m) duckbill hadrosaur and other
creatures that stalked through a steamy setting of erupting volcanoes and torrential rains. Huge upliftings and occasional collapses of the ocean floor gradually separated a
landmass from the continent. Even today, the Baja peninsula creeps northwestward, along with a portion of California by the San Andreas Fault, at an approximate
rate of one inch per year.
The earliest evidence of human habitation is of the San Dieguito Indian culture dating back 9,000 years.
In pre-Hispanic times, nomadic Yumano Indian tribes lived along the
Pacific coast of Baja, making their livelihoods by fishing and clamming. In 1535, the Spanish arrived under Hernan Cortes after reports of fabulous pearls to be found. They attempted to form a colony near La Paz but were
eventually driven out due to few supplies and many hostile natives. In 1657, the first California mission, Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto, was founded in Loreto. This was the start of the
Jesuit missionary period, which lasted until 1767 and
produced 20 missions.
From 1774 to 1834 eight more missions were established by the Dominican
Order. In the early 1800's, Spanish land grants were
given, and small farms and ranches were established. By mid century, the native
Indian population had been decimated by European
diseases and the Baja missions abandoned for points north.
In 1848, the Mexican-American war ended with a treaty, which divided
California between the countries. At
the turn of the century Baja California enjoyed a boom when gold, silver,
gypsum and copper were found, and Santa Rosalia became
the largest copper mining and smelting operation in Mexico.
In 1952, northern Baja's population exceeded the 80,000 needed for
statehood, and Baja California Norte was declared Mexico's 29th state. Before 1973, when the Transpeninsular Highway
(Highway 1) was completed, the drive from Tijuana to La Paz took up to 10 days via rough dirt roads. The highway has greatly contributed to the modernization
of one of Mexico's last frontiers. In less than a year following the completion of the highway, the population of southern Baja leaped past 80,000 and the territory
became Mexico's 30th state, Baja California Sur.
You can easily throw away the key to the clock
and forget the calendar in this land of little hurry or
worry. The people are very friendly and simplicity is
a way of life. This harsh land has produced a tough and adaptable
people.
Today, Highway 1 winds serpentinely for 1,000
miles (1,613 km) from the U.S. border to Cabo San
Lucas. It skirts by the cool waters of the Pacific
Ocean on its western side; other stretches cut
across arroyos, up mountains to an elevation of
3,200 feet (970 m) before plunging to desert jungles. Its mid-section overlooks
the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez; south of La Paz it
sweeps southeast past the Tropic of Cancer to Cabo San Lucas (Land's End), where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific Ocean.
The population of the entire peninsula is approximately
2.85 million, over 85 percent of which lives above the
28th parallel in Baja California Norte. Between the few major cities, small villages dot the peninsula.
Farming, fishing and tourism are Baja's main revenue earners. Fishing
boats work both coasts, but the Sea of Cortez produces the largest catch. La Paz is the main fishing center.
Tourism is concentrated in Tijuana, Ensenada,
Mulege, Loreto, La Paz, East Cape and Cabo San
Lucas.
Climate. The peninsula's isolated ecosystems range in climate
from Mediterranean, to desert, to tropical. Two-thirds of Baja can
be classified as pure desert, but even the driest
areas receive-some rain. In the interior of the Cape
region's Sierra La Laguna, annual rainfall may reach 40
inches (103 cm). Along the Sea of Cortez, summer temperatures range from 90-110°F
(32-43°C), with hot and sometimes humid
nights. Temperatures cool off in spring and fall, dropping into the 50's
(10-15°C) with some chilly winds.
Currency. The unit of exchange is the peso. Most places in Baja will take United States dollars as well as pesos. Paying with pesos, however, usually means a better deal as the vendor is prevented from determining the exchange
rate. Banks offer the best exchange rate.
The federal bank, Bancomer, has branches
in every major city.
Dining. The major cities, Tijuana, Ensenada,
Mulege, Loreto, La Paz and Cabo San Lucas, have a wide range of restaurants in all price ranges. In the small towns, one can always find clean restaurants with good basic food.
Electricity. The electricity is 110 volts, 60 cycles, the same as in the United
States.
Entry Requirements. United States citizens visiting Baja are required to have a passport
while Canadian
citizens visiting Baja for less than 72 hours need only
proof of citizenship—a birth certificate, voter registration card, certificate
of naturalization or passport. If
staying for longer than 72 hours, a tourist card is needed, which is available
free of charge at any Mexican tourist office, on flights to Baja, or at the
border in Mexican insurance offices.
Citizens from other countries may need visas in advance.
Getting There. Several major airlines fly into Baja, including
Aero Mexico, Alaska, Mexicana and Aero California. Commercial airports are located at Loreto, La Paz, Los Cabos and Tijuana. Flights leave daily from Los Angeles, San Diego, San Francisco, Phoenix
and some of Mexico's major cities.
Highway 1 begins at the U.S. border in Tijuana
and continues to Cabo San Lucas. Highway 1 is a
narrow, two-lane paved road. There are really only two
simple rules to follow: Do not speed and do not drive at
night. Many Mexican cars are poorly lit for night driving, but the main problem
is that range cattle roam freely throughout much of Baja and they seek the
warmth of the asphalt at night.
Green Angels.
Motorists in need of a helping hand on Baja’s paved roads will find that
there is a fleet of specially-equipped green pickup trucks which patrol the main roads several times daily. Called Angeles Verdes, or Green Angels, it is their job to assist motorists in trouble.
Insurance. To be fully protected in Mexico, you must carry Mexican insurance on your car,
trailer and boat or any other item you might be
hauling. The insurance rates are based on the value of these and the length of
stay. Insurance can be obtained at the Auto Club of
California or at the border when crossing. More
information and rate quotes are also available through the Baja Travel Club.
Language. Spanish is the national language. English is
spoken occasionally in the tourist sections and larger hotels. The type of Spanish spoken in Mexico is
referred to as Latin American Spanish, in contrast to the Castilian Spanish
spoken in Spain.
Shopping. In
all of the major cities, there are gift, clothing and jewelry stores. Sterling silver is very popular.
Telephone.
Telephones are found throughout the major cities and towns. The smaller villages usually do not have
phones. To call Baja California from
the United States, dial one 011 + 52 + area code and number.
Time. Baja Norte (north) is part of the Pacific Time zone
along with the west coast of the United States,
while Baja Sur (south) is in the Mountain Time
zone.
Water. Hotels and restaurants serve only purified
drinking water and ice. Tap water should not be
consumed except in hotels where the water system is purified. Most grocery stores sell purified water.
Where To Stay. Accommodations in Baja run from free campgrounds to plush resort hotels.
The small towns usually have a few simple motels, while the larger cities have
a variety of hotels to choose from. The
La Pinta Hotel chain is nice and has good food. If you are driving, they are located in Ensenada, San Quintin,
Catavina, San Ignacio and Loreto. The
El Morro Hotel is located in Guerrero Negro and Santa Rosalia, If you are flying into the major cities of
La Paz or Cabo San Lucas, there are many more to choose from. For setting up hotel and diving packages
selected dive operators can be very helpful.