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Baja California
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Susan Speck
Susan Speck is a divemaster and owner of a dive center in Baja California.  She has been photographing and diving Baja California for more that 25 years.  Her articles and photographs of Baja and many other remote diving destinations have appeared ind diving, travel and nature magazines worldwide. 

Although she has a special fondness for Baja, she also leads many dive expeditions to California sites as well as to exotic areas throughout the world.  She presently resides in Loreto, Baja California.  
By Susan Speck
Published on 05/9/2007
 
Everything you ever wanted to know about Baja California

Baja California

The Past

Twenty million years ago, the Baja California, peninsula was a land of palm jungles choked with ferns and lush primeval vegetation. It was, home to the 23-ton, 50-foot-long (15 m) duckbill hadrosaur and other creatures that stalked through a steamy setting of erupting volcanoes and torrential rains. Huge upliftings and occasional collapses of the ocean floor gradually separated a landmass from the continent. Even today, the Baja peninsula creeps northwestward, along with a portion of California by the San Andreas Fault, at an approximate rate of one inch per year.

The earliest evidence of human habitation is of the San Dieguito Indian culture dating back 9,000 years.

In pre-Hispanic times, nomadic Yumano Indian tribes lived along the Pacific coast of Baja, making their livelihoods by fishing and clamming. In 1535, the Spanish arrived under Hernan Cortes after reports of fabulous pearls to be found. They attempted to form a colony near La Paz but were eventually driven out due to few supplies and many hostile natives. In 1657, the first California mission, Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto, was founded in Loreto. This was the start of the Jesuit missionary period, which lasted until 1767 and produced 20 missions.

From 1774 to 1834 eight more missions were established by the Dominican Order. In the early 1800's, Spanish land grants were given, and small farms and ranches were established. By mid century, the native Indian population had been decimated by European diseases and the Baja missions abandoned for points north.

In 1848, the Mexican-American war ended with a treaty, which divided California between the countries.  At the turn of the century Baja California enjoyed a boom when gold, silver, gypsum and copper were found, and Santa Rosalia became the largest copper mining and smelting operation in Mexico.

In 1952, northern Baja's population exceeded the 80,000 needed for statehood, and Baja California Norte was declared Mexico's 29th state. Before 1973, when the Transpeninsular Highway (Highway 1) was completed, the drive from Tijuana to La Paz took up to 10 days via rough dirt roads. The highway has greatly contributed to the modernization of one of Mexico's last frontiers. In less than a year following the completion of the highway, the population of southern Baja leaped past 80,000 and the territory became Mexico's 30th state, Baja California Sur.

The Present

You can easily throw away the key to the clock and forget the calendar in this land of little hurry or worry. The people are very friendly and simplicity is a way of life. This harsh land has produced a tough and adaptable people.

Today, Highway 1 winds serpentinely for 1,000 miles (1,613 km) from the U.S. border to Cabo San Lucas. It skirts by the cool waters of the Pacific Ocean on its western side; other stretches cut across arroyos, up mountains to an elevation of 3,200 feet (970 m) before plunging to desert jungles. Its mid-section overlooks the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez; south of La Paz it sweeps southeast past the Tropic of Cancer to Cabo San Lucas (Land's End), where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific Ocean.

The population of the entire peninsula is approximately 2.85 million, over 85 percent of which lives above the 28th parallel in Baja California Norte. Between the few major cities, small villages dot the peninsula.

Farming, fishing and tourism are Baja's main revenue earners. Fishing boats work both coasts, but the Sea of Cortez produces the largest catch. La Paz is the main fishing center. Tourism is concentrated in Tijuana, Ensenada, Mulege, Loreto, La Paz, East Cape and Cabo San Lucas.

Useful Information

Climate.  The peninsula's isolated ecosystems range in climate from Mediterranean, to desert, to tropical. Two-thirds of Baja can be classified as pure desert, but even the driest areas receive-some rain. In the interior of the Cape region's Sierra La Laguna, annual rainfall may reach 40 inches (103 cm). Along the Sea of Cortez, summer temperatures range from 90-110°F (32-43°C), with hot and sometimes humid nights. Temperatures cool off in spring and fall, dropping into the 50's (10-15°C) with some chilly winds.

Currency.  The unit of exchange is the peso. Most places in Baja will take United States dollars as well as pesos. Paying with pesos, however, usually means a better deal as the vendor is prevented from determining the exchange rate. Banks offer the best exchange rate. The federal bank, Bancomer, has branches in every major city.

Dining.  The major cities, Tijuana, Ensenada, Mulege, Loreto, La Paz and Cabo San Lucas, have a wide range of restaurants in all price ranges. In the small towns, one can always find clean restaurants with good basic food.

Electricity.  The electricity is 110 volts, 60 cycles, the same as in the United States.

Entry Requirements.  United States citizens visiting Baja are required to have a passport while  Canadian citizens visiting Baja for less than 72 hours need only proof of citizenship—a birth certificate, voter registration card, certificate of naturalization or passport.  If staying for longer than 72 hours, a tourist card is needed, which is available free of charge at any Mexican tourist office, on flights to Baja, or at the border in Mexican insurance offices.

Citizens from other countries may need visas in advance.

Getting There.  Several major airlines fly into Baja, including Aero Mexico, Alaska, Mexicana and Aero California. Commercial airports are located at Loreto, La Paz, Los Cabos and Tijuana. Flights leave daily from Los Angeles, San Diego, San Francisco, Phoenix and some of Mexico's major cities.

Highway 1 begins at the U.S. border in Tijuana and continues to Cabo San Lucas. Highway 1 is a narrow, two-lane paved road. There are really only two simple rules to follow: Do not speed and do not drive at night. Many Mexican cars are poorly lit for night driving, but the main problem is that range cattle roam freely throughout much of Baja and they seek the warmth of the asphalt at night.

Green Angels.  Motorists in need of a helping hand on Baja’s paved roads will find that there is a fleet of specially-equipped green pickup trucks which patrol the main roads several times daily. Called Angeles Verdes, or Green Angels, it is their job to assist motorists in trouble.

Insurance. To be fully protected in Mexico, you must carry Mexican insurance on your car, trailer and boat or any other item you might be hauling. The insurance rates are based on the value of these and the length of stay. Insurance can be obtained at the Auto Club of California or at the border when crossing. More information and rate quotes are also available through the Baja Travel Club.

Language.  Spanish is the national language. English is spoken occasionally in the tourist sections and larger hotels.  The type of Spanish spoken in Mexico is referred to as Latin American Spanish, in contrast to the Castilian Spanish spoken in Spain.

Shopping.  In all of the major cities, there are gift, clothing and jewelry stores.  Sterling silver is very popular.

Telephone.  Telephones are found throughout the major cities and towns.  The smaller villages usually do not have phones.  To call Baja California from the United States, dial one 011 + 52 + area code and number.

Time.  Baja Norte (north) is part of the Pacific Time zone along with the west coast of the United States, while Baja Sur (south) is in the Mountain Time zone.

Water.  Hotels and restaurants serve only purified drinking water and ice. Tap water should not be consumed except in hotels where the water system is purified. Most grocery stores sell purified water.

Where To Stay.  Accommodations in Baja run from free campgrounds to plush resort hotels. The small towns usually have a few simple motels, while the larger cities have a variety of hotels to choose from.  The La Pinta Hotel chain is nice and has good food.  If you are driving, they are located in Ensenada, San Quintin, Catavina, San Ignacio and Loreto.  The El Morro Hotel is located in Guerrero Negro and Santa Rosalia,  If you are flying into the major cities of La Paz or Cabo San Lucas, there are many more to choose from.  For setting up hotel and diving packages selected dive operators can be very helpful.