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Socorro Islands
- By Susan Speck
- Published 05/2/2007
- Baja California
- Unrated
Susan Speck
Susan
Speck is a divemaster and owner of a dive center in Baja
California. She has been photographing and diving Baja California
for more that 25 years. Her articles and photographs of Baja and
many other remote diving destinations have appeared ind diving, travel
and nature magazines worldwide.
Although she has a special
fondness for Baja, she also leads many dive expeditions to California
sites as well as to exotic areas throughout the world. She
presently resides in Loreto, Baja California.
At a Glance
Located 220 miles (355 km) south of Baja's tip sits a small group of volcanic islands, virtually in the middle of nowhere. There are four islands
in the chain of which Isia San Benedicto is the closest to Baja. Isia Socorro
is 22 miles (36 km) further south, while
Isia Partida sits to the southwest.
Isia Clarion lies the furthest in the
Pacific, being 370 miles (597 km) from Baja's tip.
In 1952, Isia San Benedicto erupted, forming a prominent cone about 1,000 feet (303 m) high,
along with a large lava flow area, which can be seen on
its southern end. In January 1993, Isia Socorro awoke
from 145 years of dormancy when a fissure opened on the ocean floor, spewing huge "rocks as large as 10 feet (3 m) in diameter. These rocks were filled with gas and floated on the surface until the gas dissipated. Except for a small Mexican naval base and a village on the southern tip of Isia Socorro, the islands are
uninhabited.
This archipelago has been referred to as the Mexican Galapagos.
The birds seem fearless and many are endemic to the area, as are several plants. A story by one biologist who was doing research was that when he was napping,
a Socorro wren landed on his belly, hopped up to his chest, and looked intently
at the folds in his shirt and even up his nose for morsels to
eat.
Almost every hurricane that originates in the Pacific and heads for Mexico and Central America moves through this
archipelago. Because of the unpredictable weather, these are only visited by long-range boats through May, the
weather conditions can, at times, exhibit strong winds
and heavy seas. The most stable weather conditions are in November to early December, and in April and May.
In the fall, the water temperature is around 80°F (27°C); while in the spring
it is about 70°F (21 °C).
A presidential decree in 1994 declared the Socorro Island chain a national protected area. No collecting or fishing is allowed within several
miles of the inland waters. There has been much
controversy over the commercial fishing here, and after a dive boat videotaped the slaughter of some of the giant manta rays at The Boilers in February of 1994, a public demand to protect the Socorro Islands grew. But the entire Sea of Cortez
is in need of more legal protection as well as adequate
patrolling to enforce fishing laws,
Getting There
The best way to get to the Socorro Island chain is by boat. There is a small airstrip on Socorro, but is not
commonly used. From Baja's tip at Cabo San Lucas, most dive boats
take approximately 24 hours to arrive at Isla Benedicto. Dive boats that make this journey include the following:
The Solmar V, based out of Cabo San Lucas, is a 112-foot (34 m) luxury liveaboards with 12
cabins. The spacious and well laid-out boat can accommodate up to 24 divers.
Bookings can be made through Solmar
Resorts.
The dive boat Copper Sky is a 72-foot
(22 m) schooner that is based out of La Paz. It can accommodate up to eight divers. Bookings and more information can be
obtained through Baja Expeditions.
The Baja Treasure is a
116-foot (35 m) dive boat out of Guaymas that can accommodate up to 20 divers. More information and bookings can be
obtained through See & Sea Travel.
Diving
The most visited islands by the liveaboards
dive boats are Isla San Benedicto and Isia Socorro because they are closest to Baja, and they are
closest to each other. The diving around these two islands is excellent and you can expect to see large schools of the brightly colored clarion
angelfish and the elegant redtail triggerfish. Larger pelagic, such as
tuna, Wahoo, schools of jacks, a variety of
sharks and huge manta rays tend to come more often into shallower water than
elsewhere. In the spring months, divers
have a good chance to see humpback whales.
Being of volcanic origin and because of the
swift hurricanes that move through this area, the topside terrain is quite
barren. Likewise, the underwater
terrain is void of gorgonians and soft corals.
One of the most picturesque dive sites at Isla
San
Benedicto is known as The Boilers, located at
the northwest end. It is an underwater pinnacle
that starts in 25 feet (8m) of water. This
shallow plateau extends approximately 100 feet (30 m) across.
The sides of the pinnacle are vertical walls that drop to a 120-foot (36 m) sandy bottom. The top of the pinnacle is absolutely alive with color as are its
sidewalls. The exotic-looking black and
gold Moorish idols can be found here in schools of great numbers. Neon orange clarion angelfish, puffer fish,
wrasses, hogfish and redtail triggers are also abundant. Whale sharks have been known to linger around the
pinnacle during both fall and spring months.
But the main
attraction of this seamount is the likelihood of seeing the giant manta
rays. With 18-foot (5m) wingspans,
these exquisite creatures seem to be as curious about divers as the divers are
about them. Being one of the most
docile animals in the sea, these eminent beauties seem to really enjoy human
contact. After spending a good amount
of time with these creatures, it is easy to see why studies are beginning to
show their intelligence. It is
suspected that they will soon be high on the list of respected and protected
animals, as are the dolphins and whales.
Around
the seamount are columns of silver swirls; there are hundreds of both
amberjacks and horse-eyed jacks.
Occasionally solo tuna and Wahoo dart by. Beyond the seamount in deeper water, divers can sometimes spot
hammerhead sharks. A little closer to
the island, approximately 75 yards (68 m) from the shore is another seamount
that comes to within 80 feet of the surface.
It is a good spot to find larger fish weaving their way across the reef
top.
There
appears to be more shark activity at the southern end of this island which is
made up of rocky terrain. At 40 feet
(12 m), there are some rock formations that descend to over 100 feet (30+
m). Sharks that frequent this area are
hammerheads, silky, tigers, white tip, Galapagos and gray reef sharks. The depths range from approximately 40 feet
(12 m) at the shallowest, down to below 100 feet (30 m). In the deeper depths is where schooling
hammerheads can be seen.
The
sharks here at San Benedicto are less spooked by divers, and are fairly easy to
approach. The Galapagos, white tip and
hammerhead are the most commonly seen.
Both the south end and east side are still virgin sites for diving and
are a shark photographer’s paradise.
The
island of Socorro is larger than San Benedicto. On the northeast side of the island divers can usually find a
fair amount of shark activity. The area
can get some pretty strong currents, so drift diving is often the choice.
At
the north end, there are some protruding rocks that jut out from the
island. Underwater at about 50 feet (15
m) and deeper, the terrain is made up o large, flat and oblong boulders. Here, there are great schools of clarion
angelfish and redtail triggerfish. As
you ascend to about 30 feet (9 m), the terrain takes on a whole new appearance. The incredible volcanic earth formations
look like something you might expect to see on the moon. There are great angular channels in the reef
to swim through which are doted with pockets.
These pockets make perfect homes for eels, octopus, urchins, starfish and
large Socorro lobster.
This
site on the northwest side of the island has several different names depending
on the dive b oat you’re on, but the most common are Old Man Rock and O’Neal
Rock. Depths start in about 40 feet (12
m) of water and drop to well over 100 feet (30+ m). There is a large, rocky plateau at 40 feet (12 m) where big
lobsters, rays, eels and myriad tropical fishes can be found throughout. On the outer edge of the plateau is a
drop-off. Below the drop-off on the
wall at 90 feet (27 m), there is a cavern with a large arch above it, which is
a dramatic backdrop for photographers.
Along the wall is a good area to look for schooling hammerhead
sharks. Sometimes they will be seen in
pairs or small groups swimming gracefully over the shallower plateau.
